Yes please, I'll take a bowl of Greek yogurt with peaches, kiwi, walnuts, raisins and Greek honey - and could I get a cuppa Greek coffee on the side, there, but just a little sweet, not extra sweet?
Thanks.
On the morning of our second day in Santorini, we decided to hit a small creperie called "Cafe NRG." It was not the last time we'd end up there - their prices were reasonable, their food tasty, and their concept eminently translateable. The owners told us that they had been asked by many an American tourist whether they were going to franchise their idea, but they just didn't feel like doing the extra work.
(People after my own heart.)
Just outside the door of NRG, we ran into a donkey.
(Check out that street! Why am I not there right now?)
This donkey was not just any donkey - this donkey was selling terrific roasted pistachios. (OK - actually, you can see the foot of the guy selling the pistachios over on the left - he didn't want to be in the picture.) We bought a small bag, which you can see in the Husbear's hand - but the next day, we had to come back and buy two of the large size. One to eat, one to smuggle (achem) back into the country to give GQ, a noted fan of pistachios.
Naptime!
Not for us - we were on vacation! Though that cool marble does look rather inviting.
Santorini afforded us an opportunity we could not pass up.
For three euros, you can ride a donkey up the side of the caldera, from the port (Skala Fira) to Fira town.
We had to go.
First, we took a cable car down (same price as the donkey - 3 euros).
Isn't that volcanic rock neat?
We shared our cable car down with a group of 'mercans from one of the three or four cruise ships currently in the harbor. That is the thing about Santorini, at least during the day - it is jammed with daytrippers, especially in the area right around the cable car terminus.
These particular folks were talking about how their two hours on the island were really plenty - they had seen enough, and were ready to get back to the formal dinner taking place on board that evening.
It's not that I have any problems with cruises! I love them (I've been on two wonderful Carribean cruises, courtesy of my wonderful papa), and would really like to go on an Alaska cruise, or a leaf-peeping (almost typed peeing) cruise, one of these days - you get to see things you can't from the land. But I'm not really about the giant ships that throw like 4,000 people out into these culturally rich areas for like three hours and tell them they've distilled the essence of the country.
Skala Fira didn't have much by way of diversions - a few little souvenir shops, selling the usual - hats and postcards and batteries and books about Santorini in fifteen different languages - so we went to look for the donkeys to ride back up.
'Twerent hard to find.
Basically, you walk over to the beginning of the path back up to town - and you're suddenly surrounded by donkeys and Greek men in little hats saying "You ride donkey now! Ride Donkey!"
It was actually hilarious - people would be walking down the path from Fira, they'd reach the donkeys, and these guys would immediately try to get them right back on a donkey to turn right back around and head up to town.
The donkeys were adorable, if a little donkeysmelling. (what were you expecting, girlie? Shaddup.)
This one was ready to call it a day. (Look familiar? Check out our banner.)
The donkeys actually seemed to be in good shape, from what we could see, and well cared for. We hopped on our donkeys (I'm grinning like an idjit just thinking about it - this was the most fun ever).
I know I look like I'm thinking this might not be a great idea... but that's just me squinting, I swear.
Somehow, I got to be the one that held the camera on the way up the path, which is why these pictures... they're not very good.
Time to head up!
Actually? Looking at this picture, I'm fairly certain Husbear's donkey was... well... having a bit of a tinkle. But I got to take the lead! You snooze, you lose! Woo!
The race up the side of the caldera was slow, completely out of our control, and so hysterical it made me cry. Donkeys stopped when they felt like it, nibbling on tasty little sprouts growing out from between the stones. Donkey shoulders were thrown - and my donkey was evil, nipping at several others as they tried to pass.
Things with our little group were going so slow, in fact, that one of the guys from the base had to ride a teeny donkey (maybe a mule? Or we were riding mules and he was on an actual donkey?) up behind us really fast, shaking bells and yelling. This seemed to put a fire under our noble steeds, and the pace picked up substantially.
The plan for the afternoon was to lay low for a while, until the heat of the day started to subside, and then go for what our wicked, wicked frommer's called a "leisurely two-hour stroll" from Fira to Ia. We planned to take it slow, stop in a couple of the towns along the way. Yeah.
First, though, it was time to have a little snack. Back to NRG! (Please forgive us - but their food was really good, and cheap, and good, and did I mention cheap?)
We really did think about jacking their concept - it's pretty cool!
For pics, here's a couple of links:
1) on the left side of the door, facing into the street
2) view into the store - pretty much shows the entire interior
3) the toppings bar - like a Subway, but good! And actually fresh!
(As always, you know, you can visit our photostream directly - or view our growing honeymoon album! You can even see the honeymoon photos as a slideshow by clicking on the "view as slideshow" link on the set page, too.)
Leaving you with a pic of happy me, chillaxin' with my crepe. This was before I came to know the hell that is the walk from Fira to Ia. HA! You're just going to have to wait.
girlie
