Our friend David, The Soup Peddler, is a walking, cooking, rolodex of who’s who in Austin and fortunately for us he likes to make folks mingle. A couple nights ago he had the great idea to get a few Austin food bloggers together for a taco truck mini tour. Hell yeah.
Much to her chagrin Girlie had to opt out due to an HOA meeting/barbed-wire-cage-death-match. However, Mando and Ixchel from Taco Journalism, Jodi from Foodtouring, her friend Adam, and a recovering chef named Tom rounded out our field trip roster.
We were supposed to all meet at a truck just west of the Lamar and Oltorf intersection. I was running late so I really thought I was in the wrong spot when I pulled into a pitch black parking lot with no truck and a homeless man sleeping on a loading dock. I was reassured when the homeless man sprang up and turned into David.
He explained that everyone else was late too (Damn unreliable foodies. We can’t be trusted) and that the truck had in fact left the scene. A known hazard of the taco truck sport. I thought perhaps that they may have been discouraged by this piece of menacing signmanship.
Moments later we were all convened and undaunted we boldly headed to truck #2- El Primo at S. 1st and Live Oak. It had all the hallmarks of a promising taco: small, simple, clean, and smelling of deliciousness.
The choices were limited and traditional in nature; a plus in the right situations. I got the tripas on a flour and an al pastor on a corn tortilla. Both were topped with a mix of chopped onion and cilantro. Verdict: super yummy. (See picture at the start of this post for these tacos in action.)
The tripas were tender and moist, displaying none of the less desirable tripas characteristics. The al pastor was not of the chunks of pineapple variety but still managed a soft sweetness. The reddish color was nice as well and the aromatic spices used in the cooking came through nicely.
We didn't like it.
The tortillas were store bought but didn’t detract in any way from the overall taco experience. I should also give a shout out to the smoky orange chipotle salsa and his tangy green friend. Both salsas had a great balance of heat and earthy pepper flavor. Displaying fabulous aplomb, I even managed not to down the whole bottle of chipotle.
After a bit, we got up the energy to head off to the next truck. A few options were bounced around but ultimately we decided on a new school vs. old school agenda. With this in mind we all regrouped at Izzoz, a surprisingly large converted horse trailer located in the old Torchy’s spot (1207 S. 1st St.)
The father and son team who run Izzoz couldn’t have been friendlier. They showed us around, explaining their love of food and fresh ingredients. The son, holding bone fide chef credentials, has put together an interesting and eclectic menu. Izzoz is from the Torchy’s and Tacodeli strain of Taco-ism.
I eschewed the fried avocado and the shrimp and cabbage offerings for a Padre and a Slowrider. The Padre is ancho braised pork with avocado chunks and a pineapple tomatillo salsa. The Izzoz version of al pastor. The Slowrider is braised beef with cotija cheese and salsa fuego.
Both tacos were of extremely generous proportions and both were quite tasty. The meats had that rich slow cooked flavor that can’t be faked or rushed and were the highlight for me.
Overall though, things were just a bit too busy. I appreciate a focus and clarity of flavor in my tacos. By the time all of the lettuce and vegetables and salsas, etc. were added it seemed like more of a sandwich. Mando may have said it best when he remarked that the food was just “coincidentally in a tortilla.”
Rather surprisingly, by this time it turned out that we had squandered valuable eatin’ time on such distractions as interesting conversation and getting to know one another. Lame. The clock had cut our taco crawl to a premature end.
The Soup Peddler waxes rhapsodic to Taco Journalism.
After I said my goodbyes and headed off for home, I realized that I just wasn’t done. No, a third sampling was a must. I vowed to indiscriminately stop at the next open taco truck that I passed.
It didn’t take long. Soon I was pulling up to Ley’s on Comal between 6th and 7th St. It was small, very small. The cluttered interior and prominent microwave were not good signs, but I’d made a pact.
I ordered one lengua and another al pastor just to keep the theme running. While the earnest cook worked away, I found myself entranced by two large cup-o-noodles going round and round in the microwave. Huh.
My curiosity was answered when two dudes popped out of the next door building and walked over to claim the bubbling soups. Before handing them over, the taco-cook scooped a large spoonful of mayo into each one and topped them both with cilantro and a squeeze of lime. Huh.
Regardless, I collected my tacos and headed back home to the wifey.
Even while fending Mme. Pants off with a stick, I determined that the lengua was rich and a little fatty in a good way. The al pastor was also quite tasty. It had a strong (but good) pork flavor like the meat was from the shank and it was a bit on the chewy side. The seasoning was nice with a subtle orange sweetness. As a bonus, the tortillas had been fried with an oil infused with achiote, giving them a great reddish tinge.
The crowning piece for Ley’s though was their salsas. They have two- a fiery and fruity habanero and a smooth and somewhat cooling avocado/jalapeño. They were both exceptional and I regret not stuffing both bottles in my pants and sprinting off into the night. Well, there is always tomorrow.
Thanks again to David, Jodi, Adam, Mando, Ixchel, and Tom! Let’s do it again soon guys!
-L. Pants
