Looks like I've done that every couple of months throw my neck out thing, so imagine me writing this from our B&B in Mexico City holding my head very. very. still. ow. And my trusty corn kernel heating pad is somewhere in a storage locker in Austin.
Yesterday we got a good bit done with the travel/food project we still have pretty much entirely under wraps, which meant that we spent a good chunk of the afternoon staring at computers. But not to worry, we got out and about a bit as well.
Firstish thing in the morning we headed basically next door to Tlaquepaque's market. We were actually planning to just take the market in and then head to a loncheria for some... lonch, but then we passed this little gordita stand.
And that resolution went right out the window. One with nopales and pollo and one with rajas con carne (roasted poblano pepper strips and beef), please!
Now when I get back to Austin, I'll have to see if I can get La Canaria to add these flavors to the mix.
Well, and then we passed a tacos de canasta seller. Tacos de canasta, basket tacos, are also called tacos sudados (sweaty tacos), and they're tacos that are made in the morning and then used to line a basket, which keeps them all warm and steamy together.
I totally broke my rule about only eating streetfood cooked a la minute right in front of my hungry face, because I'd just read this awesome post from Lesley Tellez at the Hija Chronicles about how worthy these particular tacos were. So I bellied up and ordered one with frijol and one with chicharron.
They were out of chicharron. Dammit. Picadillo, please.
I'm guessing I'd never seen these in the States before because they violate probably eleventy or fourteeneight health code ordinances, which is a shame. The tacos themselves are soft, but not mushy, from steaming together, and the array of fresh condiments you ladle over the top adds crunch and spice. We will have to search more of these out.
As long as we were there, we poked around the rest of the market. There were lots of folks selling hominy and cactus.
And very pretty gelatinas, too. We tried one the night before that would have bounced if you'd thrown it across the street. Not my favorite, though these actually look a bit softer and more inviting.
I won't subject you to the picture Logan got of the cut-open hen carcass with unlaid eggs visible, but it's here if you're curious. I gather they're quite the delicacy.
Later in the day, we did some strolling through the gallery area. There are some truly lovely boutiques in Tlaquepaque, though we didn't see too much in our budget.
Outside Sergio Bustamante's store.
Some joints were definitely funkier and more laid-back looking than others.
And then, much later, we stopped at a taco stand on the corner of Progresso and Refoma (love it) for dinner. 11 tacos between the two of us (they were the tiny, possibly 3-inch diameter, traditional ones, before you gasp). 81 pesos.
The setup was pretty cool. It was possible to see all the day's offerings frying up right in front of you. Order a couple, eat, ruminate, maybe order more.
The tripas were just the right amount of chewy and the chorizo had that sour, spicy punch dreams are made of. Plus, during cuaresma (lent, apparently) they offer fish and shrimp tacos on Fridays - so you're even covered if you're a practicing Catholic.
And dude, the fried onions and peppers he had for garnish and/or simple side dishes, which you see sitting in those bowls in front of the cookspace, were brilliant. Now I want them with everything.
So, sadly, no tequila tour in Jalisco, which we'll probably come to regret. We did try to present ourselves at a distillery in Tlaquepaque, but the person who ran the tours hadn't shown up and everyone else was busy eating lunch for the next three hours (literally), so we gave up. We've got to get our hands on some mezcal when we get to Oaxaca.