Hot Camel Action!

For Christmas, my parents called and said, "You and Rachel get your ass out on some camels and wander around the desert for a while."

Actually, they said, "Hey weirdos somewhere in India- we're not mailing you anything 'cause that doesn't make any sense. So here's some money."

The camel thing was our idea.

CAMELS! Thanks mom and dad!

Just outside of Jaisalmer it's possible to suit up with a dromedary and head out into the Thar Desert for anywhere from a few hours to a couple of weeks. I was a little skeptical at first, thinking it may be a big load of tourist crap, but in the end we decided to just go for it and book a 2 day 1 night "Camel Safari" through our guesthouse Roop Mahal.

And boy am I glad we did. It ended up being one of my favorite experiences in India.

We started bright and early at 7am and drove a couple of hours out toward the Pakistan border. We finally arrived at a small village and were greeted by our guides, Leelu and Komal, and a trio of surly humps and knees named Michael, Muhmal, and Mira.

In short time we loaded the beasts up with saddles, bedrolls, cooking gear, and lots 'o water.

Then we headed out victoriously to face the sand!

We plodded along for a couple of hours. I say 'plodded' generously, as riding a camel feels about like riding a horse on a trampoline. An awkward horse.

Leelu and Komal pointed out various plant and animal life and talked about their lives growing up out in this barren area.

We eventually emerged from the scrub and hit some proper sand dunes.

They were duly picturesque, looking all golden and storybooky as they undulated off into the distance.

After we finished flailing around in the sand it was time for lunch. Leelu built a fire and whipped up a mixed veg curry while griddling some fresh chapati. It pretty much kicked ass.

We did our part by asking him to make it spicy. A huge wave of relief washed over him and he confided that a lot of Europeans ask him to just boil the food. That's it. No spice, no seasoning. He looked down shaking his head, "and then I have to eat it too" he mumbled forlornly. We were glad to help.

During lunch, the camels were stripped down and hobbled so they could chill and do a bit of grazing. A camel can cover a surprising amount of ground even with its legs tied together.

When I was done eating Komal asked if I wanted to help fetch the hairy buggers and get them ready to go. Sure, I thought. Why not?

It turns out that when you catch a camel without a saddle, you ride the camel without a saddle. I'm not sure if you're a connoisseur of camelid physiology, but those things are seriously pointy. Riding a camel bareback is like working a jackhammer while straddling a sawhorse. All my bits were relieved when we finally made it back to camp.

After we were all packed up again, we continued to snake our way deeper into the Thar. A couple more relaxing hours passed and we arrived at an even more spectacular dune, our final stopping point for the evening.

Leelu was just starting to make camp when he turned to me and asked, "hey, do you like beer?"

Duh.

So he tells me that Komal is making a beer run and I should go with him if I want. "Just over those dunes," he points. "An hour round trip."

Like the clueless city slicker I am, I agreed.

2 hours later the sun was starting to go down and I still didn't see a village. For the last hour Komal had assured me that it was "very close."

I knew we had arrived when a pack of kids burst out of nowhere and started screaming, wrestling, and hitting rocks with sticks.

Komal ran off to buy the beverages and I amused myself and the youngun's by taking lots of pictures and joining in the general goofiness.

The actual purchasing didn't take long and soon we were headed back, trailing a line of locals. The sun was barely clinging to the horizon.

Concerned, I turned to Komal, "how are we going to get back with enough light to see?"

"Now, my friend, we run." And with that he slapped his camel with the reins and went flying down the dune.

Faced with imminent abandonment, I followed suit. I can't say that it was comfortable, but I can say that it was awesome. We spent the next hour galloping wildly down inclines and then walking the camels up the backside of the next dune and then repeating.

When we finally made it back sweaty and sore, I can honestly say that was one of the best beers I've ever had. It also helped sooth the blow to my ego as I went rolling ass over tea kettle trying to dismount Michael. I'm a natural I tell ya.

While I was out goofing around, Rachel and Leelu made camp.

She also got a much less stressful view of the fabulous desert sunset.

More delicious food was prepared and the guys entertained us by singing incredible songs; some traditional and some that they'd picked up from visitors around the world. They both had seriously impressive voices.

We passed out fairly quickly after that- snuggled in our bedroll, under the stunning blanket of stars.

The next day was more of the same, only this time with jelly-legs. We eventually took a short break in a village and ran into a pack a 30 or so Koreans. It turns out Leelu speaks better Korean than he does english and his english was great.

Our final destination found us back in the little town that we'd started from. While we waited for the car to pick us up, Leelu and his wife invited us into the new house they'd built in celebration of their recent marriage. They cooked another lovely meal and introduced us to some of their family as we sat around sipping pipping hot chai.

The drive back was uneventful, but we did get this crazy cool view of Jaisalmer. Lookadit just perched on that plateau as pretty as you please.

Bye for now desert and you lovable collections of fur, spit and grump! You will be missed.

Comments

[Ling]

"ran into a pack of 30 or so Koreans". Of course you would. OF COURSE you would! :D Ran into a good few today in a small human-bone decorated ossuary in a tiny podunk town here in the Czech Republic (we're in Prague for the week. No camels here, m'fraid..)

[Sara, Ms. Adventures in Italy]

You guys are seriously my COUPLE of the decade. Love all your adventures :)

[Gina]

I forbid you to ever stop traveling or writing. Forbid. That's all.

[Boots in the Oven]

What is up with that? There were lots of signs in Korean all over Jaisalmer... I guess it's a popular tourist spot! I hope you're having fun with the bones and astronomical clocks and such!

[Boots in the Oven]

Aw, shucks! Thank you! I want a plaque, or at least a certificate. :-)

[Boots in the Oven]

Ha! OK, but we gotta make a quick stop back in the States to make some money. This long-form travel stuff adds up!

[Gina]

Traveling back to the States totally counts! :) I just love reading your blog so much that I don't want it to go away.

[Boots in the Oven]

:-) No worries - this blog ain't going NOWHERE. Well, geographically, it is, but you know what I mean. :)