Jodhpur, also in Rajasthan (sensing a Rajasthani theme here? Because we were there for a while) is called the Blue City. This is for pretty obvious reasons, once you see it; the Brahmins, or priestly caste, used to paint their houses this glowing shade of electric blue, and now other folks are into the act as well.
The city was incredibly smoggy and dusty while we were there, though, so the blue views were kind of tough to see.
This is the city overlook from Mehrangarh Fort, an amazing structure begun in the 15th century by the Rathore rulers. It's an enormous building that seems to grow organically from the rock beneath. The walls are over 100 feet high in places.
The enlightening audioguide told us that in its entire history, the fort was only taken once and was held for only one day.
The fort has actually been quite well-maintained, especially considering the sad state of some of the other tourist attractions we visited with their paan spit everywhere and writing all over the walls. The sandstone screens here are carved so finely they look like they might be wood.
This is one of the later rooms, Maharaja Takhat Singh's Chamber, built in the mid 1800s during the British presence in India. The colored Christmas balls in the ceiling are 1. an example of British influence on design and 2. a design feature I demand be added to my home immediately upon our return. I think Fatty will like them.
The Fort also contains a museum of the royal family's posessions, includng old elephant howdahs and palanquins. Peacock!
There's a guy parked in a little niche on the grounds who will demostrate proper opium procedure for you, if you want. I don't think he offered samples. Apparently, the people in this area used to (and still do) drink opium as tea, especially at festive events like weddings. We, on the other hand, did a port and cheese table.
Yeah, I guess it's a nice house the Rathores had there. They've since moved to a palace outside of town that's half hotel. Come, stay with the Rathores!
One sobering moment at the Fort: as you enter, you'll see an array of orange-painted handprints on the doorjamb of one of the main gates. These are the handprints of royal women who committed seti, or self-immolation, upon the deaths of their husbands. The practice was outlawed by the British in 1829, but many of these handprints date from later.
We walked down to the city from the fort. It's certainly atmospheric, full of texture and color and beauty, but claims we'd heard of it being "the cleanest city in India" seemed maybe a little... aspirational?
From the Fort, it's only a fifteen or twenty minute walk to the clock tower at the center of town. This area is full of market stalls, and cows and dogs (and their leavings), and tuktuks and scooters and HOONK HOONK HOOOOOOOONK. Yes, there are also lots of people.
Actually, things look sort of calm in this picture.
The central square also seems to be a decent place to buy a turban, if you're in the market. Rajasthan is justifiably famous for their brightly hued cloth - if you live in a desert where everything is greige, it only makes sense you'd want color SOMEWHERE.
Jodhpur is also where we ran into the funniest, and also most good-natured, scam of our trip. This guy stopped us as we were walking past him and said "HEY! You remember me? We met in Jaisalmer and you said if you saw me in Jodhpur you'd buy me a beer!"
We said "Nice try, but we haven't been to Jaisalmer."
As we bulled on past, he called after us "Well, if you see me in Jaisalmer, will you buy me a beer there?"
Sure, I guess.
And in Jaisalmer three days later, the guy's twin (I swear) came up to us and said "You promised me a beer in Jodhpur, remember?" We laughed and laughed. And he grumped and went away. If he'd played it a little harder, he might have actually gotten a beer out of us...
To get out of the bustle, we stopped into the Shri Mishrilal Hotel, inside the southern gate of Sardar Market (the central square). When in Jodhpur, you have a makhaniyya (or makhania) lassi, which is a yogurt drink flavored with cardamom, saffron, and almonds. It's a nice sweet/sour balance that Logan said tasted a lot like key lime pie. He's oddly right.
Then we wandered the back streets some, where we were soon followed by a herd of kids asking Logan to take their pictures. Only the two bravest would pose with this goat in a sack, though... apparently he's a bit of a neighborhood terror.
That night, we went out for New Year's Eve, and I was sad and definitely not very good company to Logan as I sipped my gin and Monin's apple syrup and soda water (I would really love a decent cocktail someday). We both miss everyone so much, friends and family, and on this particular holiday I was feeling it particularly sharply.
At 5 o'clock on New Year's morning, we were at the train station for a six-hour ride to Jaisalmer. Goodbye, Jodhpur and your beautiful fort!
Next up: more desert, camel riding, and we move from the Blue City to the Golden City.
Comments