In Delhi, we found some of the best Indian food we've ever eaten. I'd like to give a big shout out to Pam over at Eat and Dust for turning us on to the little hole in the wall that made it happen, Ashok + Ashok.
Ashok + Ashok doesn't have a long menu. In fact, when we were there they were serving two things: chicken korma and chicken biryani. That's it.
But man oh man do they do it right.
Let's start with the korma, and by korma I mean the long slow braised old-school version, not the super creamy, bastardized British spinoff. Ashok's korma is fiery. It's a dark rusty red sauce, rich with ghee and layered with coriander, ginger and cumin.
From the first bite it's addictive and it only gets worse when they start bringing over a never ending supply of crisp and chewy roti, piping hot from their tandoor, perfect for sopping up anything that won't cling to your fork.
To make sure it always stays at just the right temperature, a little coal fired brazier makes an appearance to reheat the dish if they judge it's cooling off a smudge too much.
I love you tandoor!
The korma comes with a side of cooling red onions, doused in lime and salty masala. A couple green peppers are likely to show up as well, just in case you can still feel your lips.
Their biryani was hands down the most satisfying example I've ever had. It's a perfect pilaf, sticking the tricky landing right on the line between not-quite-done and whoops-a-tad-too-soft.
The super long grains somehow manage to soak all the way through with the flavors of the deep roasted chicken, sweet onion, hot chile, stout indian bay, and fragrant cinnamon. Slivers of fresh, crisp ginger and a sprinkling of chopped cilantro are mixed in to brighten up the savory mix.
I wasn't sure what we should be ordering to drink, but then I noticed all the guys working there mixing pinches of the house masala into a local citrus soda called Limca. Yes please! It was a perfect sweet and salty accompaniment.
If I had more time in India, I'd hang out with the Ashok crew until they let me help in their tiny kitchen. Somebody back there is hiding valuable information. Until then, I guess I'll just have to be satisfied with fond memories and drool.
Ashok and Ashok,42, Subhas Chowk, Basti Harphool Singh, Sadar Thana Road
(Or better yet, call Rahul and have him take you +91 987 153 3849)
That is some seriously good-looking biryani - man are those rice grains LONG! I'm gonna have dreams tonight about bouncing around in big, fluffy, fragrant mounds of the stuff... :p
Posted by: Ling | Monday, 27 February 2012 at 13:09
I went to Ashok and Ashok on Pamela's recommendation as well! (Actually I am Australian and apparently the Australian cricket team are big fans of the place as well). I can also highly recommend a rickshaw tour with Rahul! Looks like we have been to lots of the same places...
Posted by: Cara @ Gourmet Chick | Monday, 27 February 2012 at 15:17
Oooooh, two of my most favourite Indian dishes! Quite desperate for biryani now...
Posted by: Su-Lin | Tuesday, 28 February 2012 at 13:50
mmmm, that sounds like an amazing dream! I want to dream that too...
Posted by: Boots in the Oven | Wednesday, 29 February 2012 at 09:17
Cara, how funny! I wonder how many people they get because of Pamela. They certainly didn't seem fazed by us and our camera!
I'd love to be there when the Aussie cricket team descends on it...
Posted by: Boots in the Oven | Wednesday, 29 February 2012 at 09:24
I was never the biggest biryani fan... and now I know what I was missing! I'm sure you have good ones around London. mmmm, biryani.
Posted by: Boots in the Oven | Wednesday, 29 February 2012 at 09:29
Looks fabulous. Love Pam's blog.
And Limca, blast from past (childhood visits to family in India)... can (rarely) find it in London now.
Posted by: Kavey | Thursday, 16 August 2012 at 05:26